Watch Dealer Glossary
Every tribe has its own code... and in the watch game, it’s a language of its own. Dealers and collectors don’t just say Rolex Submariner… they’ll hit you with a “Hulk,” “Kermit,” or “Pepsi” like it’s common slang. Add in terms like “Bust Down” and “Full Set” and suddenly you’re either in the know...or out of the loop.
If you’ve ever felt lost in dealer talk, this glossary is your VIP pass behind the velvet rope. Learn the slang, master the lingo, and talk watches like a seasoned pro who actually belongs in the room.
Ref / Reference : The Model number of the watch.
Box & Papers (B&P) : Original box, warranty card, manuals, and accessories.
Full Set : Watch with box, papers, tags, and everything it came with from the factory.
Head Only : Watch without strap/bracelet, box, or papers. Just the case and dial.
Unworn : Watch is new condition, never used (sometimes stickers still on.)
Mint / LNIB (Like New in Box) : Very clean, close to unworn condition.
Beater : A watch worn hard, usually with scratches/wear.
Hot Piece : A Watch in high demand that moves quickly.
Over Retail / Over List : Selling above the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP).
Thin Margin : Low profit spread between buy & sell price.
Spread : The difference between wholesale buy price and resale price.
Cash Offer / Wire Ready : Serious buyer who can pay immediately via bank wire.
On Consignment : Selling someone else’s watch for a commission cut.
Flipping : Buying to resell quickly for profit.
NOS (New Old Stock) : Vintage watch that was never sold/used, essentially new.
Open Papers : Warranty card not filled in (sometimes seen as sketchy).
Blank Papers : Warranty card with no buyer name or AD stamp.
Stamped Papers : Warranty card stamped by an AD (authorized dealer).
Scrambled Serial : Randomized Rolex serial numbers (post-2010).
Card Dated : Warranty card dated by AD at purchase.
Cardless : Watch without its original warranty card.
In-House Movement : Movement made by the watch brand itself.
ETA Movement : Generic Swiss movement supplied by ETA (common in non-in-house brands).
Service Dial / Hands : Replacement parts installed during service (not original).
Aftermarket / Franken : Non-original parts added to a watch. Franken = pieced together from multiple parts.
Bust Down : Watch customized with aftermarket diamonds.
Factory Set : Diamonds set by the original brand (Rolex, AP, etc. = $$$)
Reference Check : Verifying if someone is a trusted buyer/seller by asking past deal partners.
Middleman / Escrow : Trusted third party holding funds/watch until both sides are satisfied.
Ghosting – When a buyer/seller disappears mid-deal.
Vouched / No Vouches : Whether anyone credible will stand behind a dealer’s legitimacy.
Strapped / Unstrapped : With or without bracelet/strap.
Soft Close : Auction ends only after bidding stops for 5 minutes.
Last 3 Bidders Binding : Rule that last few bidders in a group auction are locked in legally.
Watch Nicknames
Pepsi : Rolex GMT-Master with red/blue bezel.
Coke : Rolex GMT with black/red bezel.
Batman / Batgirl : Rolex GMT with blue/black bezel (Batman = Oyster, Batgirl = Jubilee).
Hulk : Rolex Submariner with green bezel + green dial (116610LV).
Kermit : Rolex Submariner with black dial + green bezel (early anniversary 16610LV or 126610LV).
Starbucks : Current green bezel Submariner (126610LV with ceramic).
Smurf : White gold Submariner with blue dial + bezel.
Root Beer : GMT with brown/black bezel.
Polar : White dial Explorer II.
Panda : White dial chronograph with black subdials (e.g., Daytona).
Reverse Panda : Black dial with white subdials.
Paul Newman : Exotic dial Daytona.
Zenith Daytona : Rolex Daytona with Zenith El Primero movement (1988–2000).
Jumbo : Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 39mm.
Nauty : Patek Philippe Nautilus.
Aquanaut “Jumbo” / “Travel Time” : PP Aquanaut variations.
Speedy : Omega Speedmaster.
Moonwatch : Speedmaster Professional worn on the moon.
Tintin : Rare red/white minute track Speedmaster.
Bond Watch : Omega Seamaster famously worn by James Bond.
Snowflake : Tudor dive watch with square-tipped hour hand.
Big Pilot : IWC oversized aviator watch.